I’m so excited, I’ve been working on this for literally months and now it’s LIVE!
You can now instantly download your own Crescent Moon Yoga Pants Pattern, complete with instructions, in whatever size you like. Heck, at $2.50 each, get them all. I’m diligently working to make all my patterns available as ePatterns, so stay tuned!
Ever wonder how your sewing machine works with just one needle? Wikipedia to the rescue!
I love our living room. It’s where we all, for lack of a better word, live.
The kids build forts,
and play swashbuckling pirates.
Recently I decided that our house needed a little more color in them to match the ever growing characters of the little inhabitants in our lives.
It all started with the big granny square.
Which totally needed a pillow.
Oh, did I say A pillow? I meant lots of pillows. (Which took me MONTHS to crochet, but I totally did it!)
It’s been quite a colorful week in our house.
I was in the basement getting out bigger clothes for Marcus (ahem 12-18 month sized) and found this lovely sweater for Molly in my hand-me-down bin.
Upon closer inspection, I saw that it needed a button.
Which got me to thinking…
Molly loved it. She immediately started to dance,
and dance (check out that pillow, it’s totally setting the dancing mood),
I think all the color in our lives inspired a little shimmy,
and a boogie.
Congrats Claire, Sheryl and Erin! Hope you enjoy your pattern!
To celebrate becoming a mom of THREE, and releasing the new Baby Steps EC Pattern, I am giving away the new pattern to THREE (3) lucky ladies (and guys too, equal opportunity sewer here)!
To enter this giveaway answer the following question in the Comments section of this post:
“What was the last thing you sewed? Did it turn out like the picture? What time was it?”
I made Molly’s Birthday dress right before Marcus was born 😉 I sketched up what I wanted it to look like and went to town, cutting into some pj’s that I bought awhile back. I think it looks close enough to my chicken scratch attempt at a picture. Ummm… it was 3am.
One entry per person, please.
No entries after 2:34 am Mountain Time Tuesday, March 30, 2010 (When Molly was born three years ago!).
Winners will be selected at random (using random.org) and announced Tuesday morning.
I’ve running around so fast lately trying to set up everything for the new baby’s arrival, that I haven’t posted here in a while. I was thoroughly freaking out at the beginning of the month, completely unprepared if the baby was coming any earlier, but I buckled down *with the help of my lovely husband* and compiled a list of things I NEEDED to get done before the baby comes. I decided on sixteen things I couldn’t stand if they didn’t get done, and am happy to say that only four are left
…One of which is to release the BabySteps EC pattern! The testing was a great success and I’m on to my favorite task of prettying up the pattern and writing and drawing the instructions. Stay tuned to the blog for updates! Hopefully you will be seeing this in my store soon! Thanks again to all the lovely testers and their feedback!
It’s tentatively called the “Baby Steps EC Pants” They are from birth to potty for EC users and make great starter training pants (they can be made of fully outer PUL and child can pull up and down on their own and be snapped off when needed)
Super Trim Front
Full Coverage Back
This is a fully T&T pattern. You can make a fitted or AIO with a PUL outer. I need a full range of pattern testers from NB-XL. The sample shown here is a PUL AIO with snaps, however you can also sew with Aplix or touchtape. Instructions and layout are also included in the pattern.
You will receive one size of your choice by Friday (November 20th, 2009) AM, along with abbreviated instructions. (probably lacking pictures, so you will need to have experience with general diaper making)
What I need from you:
1) Your email addy.
2) The size pattern you would like to test.
By Tuesday (November 24th, 2009) of next week, you will need to email me @ patterntesting @ samanthaliz.com (the same place you will receive the pattern file from)
3) Your child’s current measurements and weight. (I’m looking for waist, thigh and rise here)
4) Pictures of the completed diaper, both modeled and not.
5) A general review of how the construction went.
6) A personal fit eval since you are in person, and I can only see pics.
Reply here (I won’t approve, so your info will remain private), or email me @ patterntesting @ samanthaliz.com with your info!
And now for something completely different.
Well, not COMPLETELY But it’s not sewing for a change. Tom decided he wanted to have a Windows 7 Launch Party and was selected! Soooo, I needed to bake something extra special. Out came my Vegan with a Vengeance cookbook and came up with Fauxstess Cupcakes.
I got out all my yummy vegan ingredients.
Tied on my cupcake apron. (Check out that belly, and I didn’t even eat a cupcake yet!)
Sifted my dry ingredients…
Mixed them with the wet 😉
Baked and Filled!
And don’t forget to add icing and arrange on lovely fiesta plates in the shape of the windows logo!
Voila, Windows 7 Cupcakes
So, if you know me, you know I can never leave well enough alone. Which is why yesterday I thought, hmm I wonder if it would work as a knit and I could totally make sleeves to go with it for the cold weather months ahead.
Well, that should be easy, right? All I needed to do was cut the two back pieces on a fold where the first line is (totally thinking ahead when I made the pattern) before the part with the snaps in it. Knit part complete! Oh and here’s my sleeve pattern add on while I’m at it:
**** FOR KNITS**** http://www.samanthaliz.com/KnitSpinAroundSleeveAddon.pdf
***FOR WOVENS*** http://www.samanthaliz.com/WovenSpinAroundSleeveAddon.pdf
Here’s some quick modifications, with kinda bad pics, sorry I used my iphone.
After you sew the shoulder seams, the neckhole should look like this:
Pin and sew!
Clip V’s or pink and turn right side out, topstitch.
Match center to seam of top, right sides together. Pin.
Sew/Serge together. Repeat for other sleeve. (see? I was ambitious, I even got out my serger this time!)
Looking like something!
Pin bottom of front piece and top of bottom piece right sides together, sew and then topstitch. Repeat for back and bottom.
Match up front to back along sleeves and down side seams. Pin together, sew down both sides. (Pretend I took a picture of this step.)
Fold up your sleeve hem. I did 1-1/4″ for Molly, I would probably do 1″ for a standard 2T. Topstitch up 😉 (I did 1″ from edge, 5/8″ for standard 2T)
Hem the bottom of the dress! I serged this time, then folded up 1″ and topstitched 5/8″ from bottom edge. (Feel free to do it like the original post as well.)
Done. On with your day then.
Whenever I come up with a new dress pattern for Molly, she always asks, “It Spin Around?” In this pattern, she is all princess and all spin. The Spin Around Dress, made just for Molly, and she’s not shy about sharing.
This Pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. Please do not reproduce or sell items made from this pattern.
Quicky instructions and full size pattern pieces available in pdf form for downloading here:
- A yard and a half of any woven of your choosing. I picked a lovely quilters cotton for mine. A good key to selecting a fabric is to remember that the lighter the weight the more the flowyness. If you pick a cordoury (which you could) expect it to be much less drapey and a bit more tenty 😉
- About a 50″x7″ strip coordinating/contrasting material to make a sash. If you are not folding it in half (ie: ribbon) then you only need it to be about 3-4″ tall. Totally optional, totally cute.
- Snaps. I like to use metal snaps on my dresses. You can get them at just about any craft store with a “snap setter” or get all fancy and order them online from somewhere like The Snap Store. I have the #16 size because that’s what the cool designs are in, but you can pick whatever size you think you’ll use most.
- Thread, match fiber content to your fabric as best you can.
Print out the .pdf of the pattern, being sure to turn all print scaling off and checking that your 1″ square is actually a 1″ square when you are all printed up nice. Read the labeling on the pattern, using the diagram to match it all together, see that you but the edges and tape together the bottom piece and NOT OVERLAP.
Cut out your pattern pieces. Lay out onto fabric and cut away.
When it’s all cut out, it should look something like this I cut the sash fabric too.
Match up right sides together fronts to backs pinning at the shoulders.
Sew all four using 1/2″ seam allowance.
Match your newly formed “top” pieces right sides together, pinning along inner neckline and armholes.
Sew with your 1/2″ seam allowance, making sure you follow the sweetheart neckline and cut v’s or use pinking shears close to your stitches so that when you turn it lays nice.
Turn right side out, pin and topstitch 1/8″ from the edge the inner neckline from back snap panel to back snap panel.
Line up the armholes to make um, well arm “holes”.
Match right sides together and pin.
Repeat for both sides and sew them!
Fold right side out and topstitch 1/8″ in all the way around for both arms.
You’re halfway there! Set aside your FINISHED top piece and grab your two bottom pieces.
Pin side seams of the bottom pieces right sides together (of course!) and sew. I did a little zig zag down the edge of the seam on this one since it’s exposed on the inside. If you have a serger (and aren’t too lazy to take the cover off and use it, lol) then by all means serge this one 😉
Grab your top piece and pin it to the bottom piece. I pinned together the back pieces so that they overlapped about 5/8″ or so. Pin your front and side seams then line it all up in the back, it’s much easier that way.
Sew together and then topstitch it facing the inner seam down. (Have you figured out that I love topstitching by now?)
Almost done! Hemming time!
Fold and pin bottom edge up 1″ all the way around.
Fold down 1/4″ hiding the unfinished edge neatly inside, repinning as you go along.
Sew inside all the way around 1/8″ from your “top” edge.
Mark your snap placement on the back of the dress.
Pick out your pretty snaps and apply.
Make your sash. I just sewed all the way around on three sides folding the fabric in half leaving a hole for turning then topstitched all the way around. Then I tacked it on by hand to the dress at the side seams 1/2″ down from the armhole opening.
Put dress on model and initiate spinning!
(Whew! That’s a wordy title!)
All In Ones (AIO) are great for outings or when you’re showing off your cloth diaper collection to your friends in hopes to convert them. PUL is great but only comes in a limited array of solid colors and Cotton Laminated PUL is adorable, but the prints you love are hard to come by and wicks anyway.
So what is a girl to do?
If you have the Little Half Moon Pattern, the answer is easy: Combine your favorite cotton woven (heck, it could even be a great skirt that you found at a vintage shop) and make a wick-less all in one. 😉 Start out with your pattern laid out on your favorite work surface.
See the two lines on the pattern for each diaper? One is designed for the Inner Fabric (the dotted line) and the other for the Outer Fabric (marked with the dotted to solid lines). When making a traditional AIO, you would cut 1 layer of PUL using the Outer Fabric line and 2 layers of your absorbent fabric on the Inner Fabric line.
To make one with a wick-less cute cotton outer, just cut one more layer on the Inner Fabric line, using your outer print.
From here it’s easy, all you need to do is fold under the non-matching edges of your print (basically the leg line) about 1/8 of an inch.
Lay the cotton layer on top of the right side of the PUL layer (shiny side down) and pin the cotton layer to the PUL.
Using a straight stitch, sew the two layers together, put aside.
Now it’s time to decide if you want a hidden inner soaker layer (to make a true AIO) or have a removable quick dry snap in soaker (technically making it an AI2). I have a serger, which makes snap in soaker construction a breeze, but if you don’t it’s totally fine to just turn and topstitch (t&t) or just don’t finish the edges and sew them on the inside to the hidden inner layer.
If you choose to sew up a snap in soaker, my free download works great for this. Before serging or t&t, add snaps to the bottom layer of the soaker and the top layer of the inner fabric. Be sure to use a scrap piece to stabilize. If you are choosing to t&t the whole diaper, now is also the time to apply snaps (or loop, of the hook and loop variety) to the wings. Stack the diaper layers as follows, hidden inner layer, then the inner layer right side up, and the outer layer right side down on top of that (with the cool cotton woven sewn on top of it).
Pin edges together. It is helpful to pin the front and back of the diaper first, then match the leg edges up. The outer layer will be “baggy”. This is correct and will all come together nicely when you turn it later and create a nice rolled in appearance.
Here’s where you get some choices:
I decided to leave these open along the back for ease of turning and applying snaps with the intention to serge them closed later, but I’ll include instructions for both. 😉
You can opt to make a traditional t&t diaper and sew a straight stitch ¼ inch seam allowance around the entire diaper leaving a 3-4 inch opening on the underside of one wing.
Now it’s elastic time! I used 1/4” polybraid for these. You can opt whether or not to use front elastic (I didn’t). The diaper has a larger size range without, however some babies are harder to fit and need this for leak minimization. Lay the elastic in the seam allowance even to the starting elastic marking and 3-step zigzag in the seam allowance across the top using the smallest stitch length and a medium width. Then, increase to the largest stitch length 3-step zigzag, sew to the end, and then decrease to the smallest stitch length and stop stretching as you sew back and forth a couple times to stabilize it.
Repeat for sides and back (if sewing completely t&t, if not just the sides).
Turn it all right side out. I like to use my bone folder to help smooth the corners and curves. Pin around the diaper as needed to help it lay flat, usually around the elastic points and any curves on the diaper.
Topstitch the front of the diaper and then the sides of the wings.
If you are serging the back closed and haven’t yet applied the snaps (or the loop) to the wings, if you want them hidden, now’s the time to do it!
Pin the layers together where the elastic starting and ending points are for the back elastic level to the top of the snaps.
Thread the elastic under the two pins inside the inner and outer layer at the starting marking in the back and 3-step zigzag across the top using the smallest stitch length and a medium width. Then, increase to the largest stitch length 3-step zigzag, sew along to the end pin stretching to the max as you sew, and then decrease to the smallest stitch length and stop stretching as you sew back and forth a couple times to stabilize it.
Make sure you caught all the elastic by checking the inside.
Serge the back closed if half serging or fold the opening closed by turning the edges in following the sewing line and pinning it shut.
Apply front snaps (or hook and loop) and lean them up against your snap press and act like paparazzi.